Jollof rice, egusi and pounded yam
Jollof rice is the national argument; the smoky, party-style version comes from the bottom of the pot. Try it at Ile-Iyan on Fola Osibo or The Yellow Chilli for a plated version at $12. Egusi soup (melon-seed stew with meat and greens) with pounded yam is the classic Yoruba sit-down meal: Iya Basira, a legendary buka on Fola Osibo, does a $6 plate that beats most restaurants.
Suya and grilled fish
Suya is spiced grilled beef on skewers, cooked by Hausa vendors after dark. The suya spot at the corner of Admiralty and Fola Osibo is a Lekki institution: $3-$5 a portion, add raw onion and sliced tomato. For grilled fish (tilapia or croaker with pepper sauce), go to RSVP on Isaac John or the beachfront grills at Landmark: $15-$20 for a whole fish with plantain.
Pepper soup and moin moin
Catfish pepper soup is the go-to hangover cure and rainy-day meal: heavy on scent leaf, chilli and yam. Ile-Iyan and any decent buka does it for $8-$12. Moin moin is steamed bean pudding with egg, corned beef or fish; it comes as a breakfast side at guesthouses or as a $2 street snack wrapped in leaves.
Small chops and puff puff
Small chops is the Nigerian party platter: puff puff (fried dough balls), samosas, spring rolls, chicken wings and gizzard. Order from Chops and Sauce or Bukka Hut for delivery, about $12 for a two-person tray. Puff puff on its own from a roadside vendor is $1 for a bag of six.
Good to know
Is Nigerian food spicy?+
Yes, most dishes carry scotch bonnet heat. Ask for less pepper if you are sensitive; kitchens will adjust.
Where do I try Nigerian food safely as a first-timer?+
Sit-down restaurants like The Yellow Chilli, Terra Kulture and Nkoyo plate everything cleanly for around $15-$25 a meal.
Is there vegetarian Nigerian food?+
Some. Moin moin, akara (bean cakes), plantain, jollof without meat, and vegetable soups exist but you have to ask specifically. Most restaurants will accommodate.
What should I drink with the food?+
Chapman (a fruity mocktail) or a cold Star lager. Palm wine is served at a few places like Terra Kulture: sweet, low alcohol, order fresh not bottled.