Lekki Arts and Crafts Market
On Lekki-Epe Expressway just past the toll gate, this is the tourist market: masks, ankara fabric, beaded jewellery, drums, wooden bowls and paintings. Opens 9am to 6pm daily. Haggle hard, opening prices are 2-3x realistic. Expect to pay $10-$25 for a good beaded necklace, $30-$80 for a mid-size carved mask, $5-$15 for a metre of quality ankara. Bring small cash; cards do not work.
Oniru Market
On the VI-Lekki border, Oniru is a food and household market on Saturdays. Fresh produce, spices, snails, live chickens and ready-made stews. Bring a Nigerian friend if you can; foreigners get quoted double. Good spot to stock a shortlet kitchen for the week for $30-$50.
Ebeano and Shoprite
Not markets exactly, but Ebeano supermarket on Chevron Drive and Shoprite at The Palms Mall in Lekki Phase 1 are where expats do groceries. Imported goods (Belgian chocolate, French cheese, Kenyan coffee) are pricey, but Nigerian staples and produce are fair. Good for stocking a self-catering stay.
Epe Fish Market
An hour east down the expressway. Working fish jetty, best 7-10am when the canoes come in. Fresh catfish, prawns, tilapia and croaker at $2-$5 a kilo. Bring an insulated bag and cash. Not a tourist experience, a real market: dress down, tip the porter who helps you carry, and expect to be the only tourist there.
Good to know
How much should I haggle at Lekki Arts and Crafts Market?+
Start at 40 percent of the opening price, settle at 50-60 percent. Walking away almost always gets you a call back with a lower number.
Can I ship art home?+
Small pieces fit in checked luggage. For larger pieces, Nike Art Gallery arranges international shipping for a fee.
Is the water at markets safe?+
Buy sealed bottles from a shop, not open cups. Fresh coconut water hacked open in front of you is fine.
What day is best for Oniru Market?+
Saturday morning, 8-11am. Everything is fresh, the crowd is manageable and vendors are willing to negotiate.